Updated on January 21, 2026.
Quick Summary: Based on user reports of oil smells and turbo clogging, this guide details how to delete the CCV filter on 6.7 Cummins engines.
- User Insight: Many owners report clogged filters in as little as 20,000 miles, leading to "gutting" or deleting the system.
- The Fix: Rerouting the CCV to the atmosphere stops oil sludge from entering the turbo.
- Options: Open Vent (easiest) vs. Catch Can (cleanest, 7-9oz capacity recommended).
- Installation: A 5-step process involving removing the filter housing and capping the turbo inlet.
Author: SPELAB Technical Team | Vehicle Application: 2007.5+ Dodge Ram 6.7L Cummins
Is your 6.7 Cummins smelling like burnt oil inside the cab? Or have you noticed oil mist spraying when you remove the fuel cap? According to community feedback, these are potential indicators of severe blow-by or a saturated Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) filter.
While some users attempt to clean the filter or remove the internal media ("gutting"), many find that a complete CCV Reroute Kit is the most permanent solution. In this guide, we combine real user experiences with engineering best practices to show you the specific process.
Part I: Why Maintain or Delete the CCV Filter?
The User Experience: Cleaning vs. Deleting
The factory CCV filter captures oil mist to protect the turbocharger. However, forum users have reported several issues:
- Short Lifespan: While some get 60,000 miles, others have reported "Filter Restriction" codes in as little as 20,000 kilometers (approx 12k miles). For OEM maintenance steps, see our guide on how to replace ccv filter 6.7 cummins
- Cleaning Difficulties: Users who attempt to clean the filter emphasize the difficulty of removing adhesive without contaminating the engine oil.
- The "Gutting" Method: Some DIYers remove the aggregated filter media to allow flow, but this can trigger codes if not done perfectly.
For more community discussions on these DIY struggles, you can reference threads like CCV Filter Gutting and CCV Filter Replacement.
Figure 1: The factory filter housing often hides oil sludge accumulation.
The Ultimate Solution: Vent to Atmosphere
To avoid the recurring cost of $70-$100 filters and protect the turbo from oil coating, deleting the filter is the preferred method. This involves:
- Deleting the CCV filter media.
- Rerouting the vent line to the frame or a catch can.
This method eliminates the need for future filter changes and keeps the intercooler pipes clean.
Part II: Open Vent vs. Catch Can
When deleting the filter, you must decide where the oil goes. Users generally prefer two setups:
| Feature | Open Vent (Draft Tube) | Catch Can / Vent Tank |
|---|---|---|
| Setup | Hose routed to bottom of engine | Hose routed to a canister |
| Cleanliness | May see small oil spots | 100% Clean (Oil trapped in tank) |
| Maintenance | Zero | Empty tank every oil change |
Figure 2: Example of a custom setup. The SPELAB kit simplifies this with a direct frame reroute.
Part III: The Specific Process (Step-by-Step)
Unlike the DIY approach which requires customizing pipes and connectors, the SPELAB CCV Reroute Kit offers a standardized solution. Here is the specific process:
Tools & Parts:
You will need basic hand tools (sockets, drivers) and the reroute kit shown below.

Step 1: Access and Remove
Remove the decorative engine cover. Loosen the bolts on the CCV filter housing and pry it off. Remove the old filter element.
Step 2: Install Reroute Plate
Place the new billet aluminum plate (from the kit) onto the valve cover. Ensure the gasket is seated to prevent leaks. Tighten the bolts securely.
Step 3: Cap the Turbo Inlet
Locate the hose running from the old CCV box to the turbo intake. Disconnect it and install the provided billet plug into the turbo inlet boot. This seals the system.
Step 4: Route the Vent Hose
Connect the new 5/8" or 3/4" hose to the reroute plate. Run the hose down the driver's side of the engine, securing it to the frame rail behind the front axle.
Figure 3: Ensure the hose has no low spots to prevent freezing in winter.
Part IV: Critical Tech Tips
Sensor Awareness
Do NOT unplug the Crankcase Pressure Sensor. Even with the filter removed, the sensor must remain electrically connected to avoid a Check Engine Light. Community feedback confirms that venting to the atmosphere does not negatively impact the turbo or ECM as long as the sensor is happy.
Winter Warning
If you live in freezing climates, ensure your vent hose has a steep angle with no dips. Moisture can freeze in the hose, causing pressure to blow out the rear main seal. Keep the hose short in winter.
Conclusion
Through an in-depth analysis of user experiences, the consensus is clear: rerouting the CCV is a viable, safe option that solves maintenance headaches.
Whether you choose to DIY or use a comprehensive kit, getting that oil out of your turbo is crucial for longevity. For a hassle-free installation, we recommend the pre-designed kit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What are the primary benefits of performing a CCV reroute on a 6.7 Cummins?
A: The main benefit is preventing oil mist and sludge from entering the turbocharger, intercooler pipes, and intake manifold. Over time, the factory system coats these components in oil, which attracts soot and reduces efficiency. Rerouting also saves money by eliminating the need to purchase expensive replacement CCV filters.
Q: Will installing a CCV reroute kit trigger a Check Engine Light (CEL)?
A: Generally, no, provided you install the kit correctly. The crankcase pressure sensor must remain electrically connected to the wiring harness, even if it is removed from the filter housing or relocated. If you unplug the sensor entirely, the truck's ECM will detect a fault and throw a code.
Q: Should I choose an open breather kit or a catch can setup?
A: This depends on your preference for maintenance and cleanliness. An open breather (draft tube) is maintenance-free but may leave small oil drips on your driveway and can sometimes result in an oil smell. A catch can setup traps the oil, keeping your driveway clean and reducing odors, but requires you to manually empty the can during oil changes.
Q: Are there any risks to running a CCV reroute in cold winter climates?
A: Yes, this is a critical consideration. In freezing temperatures, moisture from the crankcase gases can condense and freeze inside the vent hose. If the hose becomes blocked by ice, crankcase pressure will build up and can blow out the engine's rear main seal. In very cold climates, keep the vent hose short, insulated, or ensure it has a continuous downward slope to prevent pooling.
Q: How often does the factory CCV filter need to be replaced if I don't delete it?
A: Cummins officially recommends replacing the CCV filter every 67,500 miles. However, many owners report "Perform Service" messages or clogged filters much earlier, sometimes as soon as 20,000 to 40,000 miles, depending on driving habits and engine load.
Q: Will I smell oil fumes inside the cab after the reroute?
A: With an open breather hose, it is possible to smell oil vapors, especially when the truck is idling at a stoplight or if the wind blows the fumes forward. Using a longer hose routed further back along the frame rail or utilizing a sealed catch can system significantly reduces or eliminates these cabin odors.
Q: Will a CCV reroute increase my truck's horsepower?
A: No, a CCV reroute does not directly add horsepower or torque. It is a reliability and longevity modification designed to keep the intake system clean. However, by preventing oil buildup in the intercooler boots, it can prevent boots from slipping off under high boost, which secures your performance reliability.
Q: Does a CCV delete affect my warranty or emissions compliance?
A: The CCV system is considered part of the vehicle's emissions control equipment. Removing or modifying it is technically for off-road or competition use only and may fail visual emissions inspections in certain states. Regarding warranty, a dealer could potentially deny a claim if they can prove the modification directly caused a specific failure, though it does not automatically void the entire vehicle warranty.

John Lee
Mechanical Engineer | 10+ Years Experience
John has spent the last decade engineering and testing high-performance automotive components. Specializing in drivetrain durability and thermal management across Powerstroke, Cummins, and Duramax applications, he bridges the gap between OEM limitations and aftermarket performance. His philosophy: "Factory parts are just a starting point."
