Installation Guide: Intake Manifold for 2011-2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke

WARNING: Please inspect and thoroughly clean all parts prior to installation. If you are unsure if you can install this product without contamination, please refer to a professional installation shop.

Upgrade your 2011–2019 Ford F250 F350 with the SPELAB 6.7 Powerstroke Intake Manifold. Designed to replace the failure-prone stock plastic manifold, this cast aluminum upgrade enhances durability and maximizes airflow efficiency. Follow this step-by-step guide to ensure a smooth installation and optimal performance.

Download the PDF version of this installation guide.

Phase 1: Disassembly

STEP 1: Disconnect Batteries

Disconnect both batteries to prevent electrical shorting.

STEP 2: Remove Factory Fuel Filter & Lines

Unclip all fuel lines from the upper fuel filter (take care not to break them).
Twist and remove the factory fuel filter, being careful not to spill fuel. Set it aside for re-installation later.
Cover open lines and ports to prevent dirt ingress.
Locate and remove the fuel line return hold-down bolts on the driver-side valve cover.
Remove the fuel support line bolt off the factory fuel filter bowl.
Once these bolts are removed, you should have enough flexibility in the return line assembly to remove the forward-most bolt mounting the factory fuel filter cup.
Remove the remaining factory fuel filter cup bolts and remove the filter cup.

STEP 3: Remove Charge Pipe

Remove the hot side charge pipe.

STEP 4: Disconnect Sensors & Wiring

Unplug the MAP sensor connector from the top of the plastic intake manifold assembly.
Unclip all wiring harness connectors attached to the plastic intake manifold.

STEP 5: Remove Manifold

Remove the engine oil and transmission dipstick support bracket bolts.
Remove all bolts mounting the plastic intake manifold to the engine.
Remove the plastic intake manifold assembly from the engine and set it aside.

STEP 6: 2015/2016 MODELS ONLY

Note: This step applies only to 2015-2016 model years equipped with an external oil feed line.

Remove factory bolts and the factory oil line assembly from the turbo.
Locate the SPELAB 2015 oil line kit assembly.
Lube O-rings with vaseline or grease and install the oil line kit.
Reinstall factory bolts and tighten.
Install the oil line bracket and secure with a zip tie.

Phase 2: Installation

STEP 7: Prepare Manifold

Install all supplied O-rings into the SPELAB manifold.

STEP 8: Install Manifold Base

Install the high-flow manifold assembly onto the engine.

STEP 9: Secure Manifold

Install flange bolts into the manifold holes and reattach the dipstick bracket.

STEP 10: Transfer MAP Sensor

Remove the factory MAP sensor from the old plastic manifold.
Locate the supplied button head Allen bolt.
Apply a light coating of vaseline to the MAP sensor O-ring.
Install the MAP sensor into the port on the SPELAB manifold assembly and tighten the Allen bolt.

STEP 11: Install Cast Manifold (Part #2)

Locate SPELAB cast manifold part #2 and the straight silicone boot.
Tip: Coat the inside of the boot with glass cleaner for easier installation.
Install the boot onto the manifold assembly already on the engine.
Install manifold assembly #2 onto the engine and install flange bolts. Tighten bolts.
Slide the silicone boot so it covers both manifolds and center it.
Install the two clamps onto the boot, center them, and tighten.

STEP 12: Install Noise Plate

Locate the 2-bolt noise plate flange (ensure the factory O-ring is installed). Using the last two M6 flange bolts, install it onto the engine location by SPELAB manifold part #2. Tighten bolts.

Phase 3: Reassembly & Testing

STEP 13: Reinstall Fuel System

Re-install the factory fuel filter cup and all previously removed bolts. Tighten all bolts.
Re-install the upper fuel filter and reconnect all fuel lines.

STEP 14: Reinstall Charge Pipe

Re-install the turbo hot side pipe assembly and tighten all clamps.

STEP 15: Heater Hose Bracket

Locate the supplied heater hose support bracket.
Remove the factory pipe support bolt and install the bracket.
Re-install the factory bolt and tighten.
Use zip ties to attach and support the heater hose to the bracket.

STEP 16: Prime & Start

Re-connect batteries.
Turn the key to the RUN position to prime the fuel system (do not start the engine yet).
Repeat the key cycle (Off to Run) 6-10 times to ensure the system is fully primed.
Start the engine and carefully check for any leaks (air, fuel, or oil).

Wrencher's FAQ: Real-World Installation Tips

Q1: The factory fuel return lines look brittle. How careful do I need to be?

Mechanic's Note Extremely careful. The plastic quick-connect tabs on the 6.7L fuel return lines become extremely brittle after years of engine heat cycling. When unclipping them during disassembly (Phase 1), do not force them. If you snap one, you're looking at replacing the entire return line assembly. Take your time and use a pick tool gently.

Q2: My MAP sensor won't slide into the new aluminum manifold. Should I force it?

Absolutely not. The tolerance on machined aluminum is tighter than the molded plastic stock unit. If you force it, you'll shear the O-ring or crack the sensor housing. Lube the O-ring generously with Vaseline or assembly grease before sliding it in. It should pop in with a firm, smooth push.

Q3: How do I keep debris out of the engine while the manifold is off?

This is critical. The moment that plastic manifold comes off, you have two giant open ports looking straight down into the cylinder head intake runners. If a bolt or socket falls in there, you are pulling the cylinder head. Immediately stuff clean shop rags into the ports or tape them over with painters tape until you are ready to drop the new SPELAB manifold on.

Q4: Why use Glass Cleaner on the silicone boot? Can't I use oil?

Do not use oil or grease on the boots! Oil stays slippery, and under 30+ PSI of boost, that boot will blow off, sounding like a shotgun blast under your hood. Glass cleaner provides temporary lubrication to slide the boot on, but then evaporates completely, allowing the rubber to grip the metal surface tight.

Q5: The dipstick bracket isn't lining up perfectly. What do I do?

The cast aluminum manifold sits slightly differently than the flexible plastic one. If the transmission or oil dipstick tube is fighting you, trace the tube down to the transmission bell housing or block and loosen the mounting bolt there. This gives the tube enough "wiggle room" to align with the new manifold bracket. Tighten the top first, then retighten the bottom.

Q6: I have a 2015 truck. Why do I have extra parts left over?

You shouldn't, if you followed the "2015/2016 Models Only" step! Ford changed the turbo oil feed line routing for these years. You must install the supplied external oil feed line and bracket. If you skip this, you won't have clearance for the new manifold, and you risk kinking the factory hard line.

Q7: What is the torque spec for the manifold bolts?

You are threading steel bolts into an aluminum cylinder head. Do not crank them down like lug nuts. The spec is low—typically around 89 inch-lbs (not ft-lbs!). Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and just get them "snug plus a quarter turn." Over-tightening will strip the threads in the head instantly.

Q8: Should I replace the Cold Side Pipe while I'm in there?

Upgrade Tip 100% Yes. You already have the manifold off, which is half the labor. The stock plastic cold-side pipe (connecting the intercooler to this manifold) is notorious for bursting at the seam. Replace it with a metal pipe now so you don't get stranded in Limp Mode later.

SPELAB Technical Support:
Email: service@spelabautoparts.com
Website: www.spelabautoparts.com