
Introduction
The SPELAB intake manifold is specifically designed to optimize the performance of 2013-2018 6.7L Cummins engines, delivering improved airflow efficiency, enhanced throttle response, and superior durability.
This installation guide provides step-by-step instructions, (OEM Harness & Sensor Removal, EGR Tube Removal, Intake Elbow Removal, Factory Heater Plate Removal, Installation of Air Intake) to help you Seamlessly install the SPELAB intake manifold to ensure optimal performance and reliability of your vehicle.
Before You Begin:
Ensure you have the correct kit and all necessary components (listed below).
Familiarize yourself with the installation process to avoid potential challenges during assembly.
Always follow safety precautions and use appropriate tools to complete the installation securely.
Installation Instructions

SPELAB intake horn for 2013-2018 6.7L Cummins accessories
- Poper Pad (Square): 1
- Dust Covers: 14
- Paper Pod (Round): 1
- External Hexagonal Wrench (S6*L151): 1
- Gaskets: 2
- Glue: 1
- External Hexagon Flange Bolt (M8L20L12): 1
- Aluminum Spacer (166.5L8): 1
- External Hexagonal Plug (S14M221.5*L26): 1
- Stainless Steel Gaskets (158L1): 4
- O-ring (3025.22.4): 1
- Inner Hexagon Stainless Steel Bolts: 4
- Inner Hex Plug (M121.25L12): 1
- Inner Hexagon Flange Bolts (M8L43L35): 2
- M6 Hexagon Socket (M6*L16): 1
- Grade 12.9 Plugs (1/8-27NPT*L8.2): 4
- Bracket Assembly (with welding nut): 1
- Cable Ties (White): 5
- High Pressure Oil Pipe (φ8*Inner 4): 1
- Coil (Short): 1
- Coils (Long): 2
Pre-Installation Checklist
- Verify that you have received the correct kit and all parts listed above.
- Ensure all parts are in good condition and undamaged.
- Always practice safe working standards:
- Allow the exhaust to cool completely before starting.
- Use appropriate safety stands and tools.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminals to avoid accidental arcing during the installation process.
Installation Steps
OEM Harness & Sensor Removal
1. Disconnect Batteries
Place a rag around each of the negative battery cable ends; this will prevent them from touching the battery again and arcing during the install as you work.

2. Remove Engine Cover
Remove engine beauty cover. Use an 8mm deep socket to remove the four bolts holding the cover down.

3. Remove Dipstick
The dipstick needs to be removed for the cover to come off.

4. Remove Engine cover, Reinsert Dipstick

5. Remove Cable Tie Downs
Use a panel popper tool or pliers.
Note: The 2 bolts with studs extending up past the head are to be located on the left rear of the cover.

6. Remove Cable Tie Downs

7. Remove Engine Cover Bolts
There are 8 bolts holding on the cover. A wobble extension and placing the socket on the bolts first helps.

8. Remove Oil Fill Cap

9. Place Rag Over Filler Neck

10. Remove Bolts Holding Crossover Bracket
This bracket will not be reused.

11. Remove Rog, Set Down Cover

12. Install Oil Filler Cap

13. Remove Bolt Under Center of EGR Crossover Tube

14. Remove and Dispose EGR Tube P-Clamp

15. Reinstall 8 Engine Cover Bolts
Studs in Rear Passenger Side

16. Unlock Temp Sensor Plug From EGR Crossover
Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pry tool to push the slide-lock.

17. Remove Temp Sensor by Pinching lt
Unclip this wire clip for extra clearance.

18. Remove EGR Valve Plug
Press the locking tab, press the plug forward to release tension, then pull back to remove.

19. Remove EGR harness cable tie

EGR Tube Removal
20. Loosen EGR Clamp Driver's Side
Use a small flat blade to release the clip.

21. Flip EGR Clamp Upside Down
Do not remove the clamp yet.

22. Loosen EGR Clamp Passenger Side
Do not remove this clomp yet [A gasket will slip out and foll if you do)

23. Release Driver side EGR Clamp
Keep a hand under the clamp in case the gasket comes loose.

24. Release Clamp and Remove Gasket
Catch the gasket and put it aside for later, this will be used again.

25. Release Passenger Side EGR Clamp
Apply pressure to keep the gasket in place and Keep your hand under the passenger side clamp to prevent the flat EGR gasket from falling into the engine bay.

26. Catch EGR Gasket From Falling

Intake Elbow Removal
27. Remove Throttle Heat Shield

28. Cut Dipstick Tube Zip Ties
Free up the thick 12V wire for the grid heater.

29. Remove 12V Harness P-Clamp

30. Remove Heater Cable from Terminal
Relocate the wire out of the way once it’s free.

31. Remove Dipstick Tube Bracket

32. Bend Tube Up Slightly
The product is slightly taller than the factory Intake Elbow. You'll fine-tune this bend after the product is installed.

33. Loosen Boost Tube Clamp
This does not have to be fully removed, just release tension on the hose.

34. Pry Boost Tube Hose Off Throttle Body
The hose may feel stuck or glued to the throttle body; carefully walk a panel popper tool around the tube to loosen its grip on the throttle body. This will make removal later easier.

35. Remove Cable Tie Back of Elbow & Unplug MAP Sensor

36. Remove Forward PCV Hose

37. Remove 6 Bolts on Elbow

38. Lean Elbow Toward You & Dislodge Boost Tube

39. Remove Throttle Control Plug
Now that the elbow has been leaned forward, you can easily reach this plug. Slide the tab over and depress the end to remove the plug.


40. Place Rag & Clamp Over Boost Tube

Factory Heater Plate Removal
41. Locate First Passenger Side Plug

- 41a. Slide the pink locking tab over, then pull to release.

42. Locate Second Passenger Side Plug

- Slide Lock In.

- Depress button to release clip.

43. Locate Third Passenger Side Plug

- 43a. Disconnect Third Passenger Side Plug.

44. Locate Flat Blue Driver Side Plug

44a. Press in the clip with a flat tool, & pull up

45. Disconnect Large Driver Side Engine Harness
Depress the clip and fully rotate the white lock, then pull to disengage. May need some force due to dust, grime, etc.

Release cable tie

46. Remove Rear Driver Side Plug

47. Remove Rear Driver Side Flat Blue Plug

48. Remove Rear PCV Hose

49. Remove Rubber Isolator

50. Remove Cable Ties from Driver Side Studs

51. Remove Dipstick Tube Stud

52. Bungee Cord Dipstick Tube

53. Remove Manifold Temp Sensor Plug

54. Place Rag Over Intake

55. Paint Marker Line Across Threaded Insert & Cylinder Head
This will allow you to see if the threaded inserts into the head start to turn when loosening the fuel lines. You do not want the insert to spin loose, as this will cause a fuel leak.

56. Remove Fuel Lines
If the inserts in the head start to move, use an open-ended wrench to hold them in place.

57. Install Dust Covers
Insert the covers, open end facing out. The caps should fit (inside) each blocked port.

58. Loosen Fuel Line, Rotate Out of Way
Do not fully remove the rear fuel rail. It is difficult to reach and only needs to be moved out of the way as shown.

59. Loosen High Pressure Fuel Feed Line
Both the upper and lower ends.

59a. Swivel Back High Pressure Fuel Feed Line

60. Remove Banjo Bolt
Take care not to lose the washer between the fuel rail & banjo bolt.

61. Remove Fuel Rail Bolts

61a. Place Rag At Rear of Fuel Rail
There will still be fuel in the rail, and it’ll leak out in the next step if you don’t do this.

62. Bungee Fuel Rail
Be sure that rag stays at the rear of the fuel rail, it will leak when you tilt it back.
63. Remove Factory Grid Heater

64. Clean Manifold Surface
Take care not to scratch the surface, and vacuum out any debris that fall into the manifold. A rag with some solvent can clean up the finer material.

65. Spray Adhesive to Gasket


66. Align Gasket & Stick On
Line up all of the bolt holes, and stick the gasket to the flat side of the plate.

67. Transfer Temp Sensor to The Plate
Take care when removing the sensor and give it a clean with some scotch brite.
Don’t over-tighten the sensor into the plate as the aluminum is softer than the steel threads on the sensor. It will bottom out so you’ll know when to stop.

Installation of Air Intake
68. Remove EGR Valve & Throttle

69. Remove Throttle Body
The throttle will be stuck onto the gasket, so use a rubber mallet to help tap it free from the elbow.

70. Remove & Transfer MAP Sensor

71. Remove & Transfer Elbow Stud

72. Clean EGR Gasket Surface
Take care not to nick the surface. Do the same for the throttle body gasket mating surface.

73. Place New EGR Gasket

74. Fasten EGR Bolts
Apply a small amount of medium strength thread locker.

75. Align Throttle Body Gasket

76. Fasten Throttle Body to the product

77. Install Sensor Plugs
Inspect the threaded holes, and be sure there is no powder coat in the holes.

78. Install Rear Thermocouple Plug

79. Install MAP Sensor
Now is a good time to clean the sensor with some MAF/MAP cleaner spray.

80. Spray Gasket With Adhesive

81. Place Washers On Hex Cap Crews


82. Hold Plate In Place w/ Stock Bolt

83. Place Fuel Rail Standoffs

84. Release Bungee Cord.
Place Fuel Rail & Studs in Place

85. Install Banjo Bolt & Washer

86. Tighten Fuel Rail

Torque Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs.

87. Tighten Fuel Lines to 41 ft/lb


88. Tighten Fuel Supply Line Banjo Bolt Hand Tight
Tighten Fuel Feed Line to 41 ft/lbs.

89. Connect Temp Sensor Extension Harness
Be sure to lock the plug once connected.

90. Remove Middle Right Stud For Dipstick-Tube

Slide Dipstick Bracket Over & Reinstall Stud.

91. Push Engine Harness Cable Ties Back Onto Studs

92. Put Rubber Isolator Back Into Place

93. Run Rear RCV Hose Under Dipstick Tube

94. Connect Rear PCV Hose Back To Valve Cover

95. Connect Rear Flat Blue Injector Plug

96. Connect Rear White Plug
Be sure to slide the pink lock back into position.

97. Route Engine Harness Under Dipstick & Around Valve Cover

97a. Plug In 3 Remaining Plugs



98. Push Cable Ties Onto Studs
Use the supplied extension to reconnect the EGR pipe and tube sensor.

99. Reconnect Engine Harness Connector

100. Do Not Connect Front Blue Injector Plug Yet

101. Remove Rag From Boost Tube, Put Clamp Back On

102. Insert The Product Into Boost Tube

103. Put Long Bolt Into Front Corner by Hand
Then do the same for the long bolt on the backside. Followed by the two smaller bolts.

104. Use Telescoping Magnet to Start Bolts

Use Hex Key Extension to Tighten Bolt.

Tighten All Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs.

105. Place The Supplied Plug In The Designated Position And Tighten It

106. Install Dipstick Tube Bracket

107. Now Install Forward Flat Blue Injector Plug
Be sure it clicks.

108. Connect Forward PCV Hose to Valve Cover
This is a tight fit, but doable. Wiggle the rubber hose on the nipple a quarter inch, then use a pry tool as a lever to help slide it on.

109. Plug In MAP Sensor
Secure the slide lock back into position.

110. Plug In Throttle Plug

111. Tighten Boost Tubes Clamp

112. Flat Washer Goes on Passenger Side of EGR Tube

113. Put Clamp Over Union & Hand Tighten

114. Conical Gasket Goes On Driver Side of EGR Tube

115. Tighten Driver Side Clamp

116. Tighten Passenger Side Clamp

117. Install Throttle Heat Shield Bolt & Nuts

118. Connect EGR Temp Sensor

119. Connect EGR Extension & Harness

120. Reconnect Batteries

121. First Start May Take 1-2 Min Of Engine Turnover
This is normal. The fuel system, rail, and lines need to re-pressurize.

IMPORTANT NOTICE:
The 1/8" NPT ports shall only be used for installing sensors for measuring air temperature, pressure, or flow.
Sensors installed to these ports shall have a fitting of 1/8" NPT and shall not be connected to the vehicle's electronic control units. In addition, factory sensors that come equipped on the vehicle shall not be disconnected and shall not be relocated to the ports.
The ports, when not used, shall be closed off with the supplied plugs.
This guide is structured into clear sections, from pre-installation preparations to detailed removal and replacement steps, making it accessible for both DIY enthusiasts and professional installers. If assistance is required, our technical support team is ready to help at service@spelabautoparts.com.
Let’s get started!