Step by Step Installation Guide-SPELAB Intake Manifold For 2013-2018 6.7L Cummins

The  SPELAB intake manifold is specifically designed to optimize the performance of 2013-2018 6.7L Cummins engines , delivering improved airflow efficiency, enhanced throttle response, and superior durability. This installation guide provides step-by-step instructions, (OEM Harness & Sensor Removal, EGR Tube Removal, Intake Elbow Removal, Factory Heater Plate Removal, Installation of Air Intake) to help you Seamlessly install the SPELAB intake manifold to ensure optimal performance and reliability of your vehicle. Before You Begin: Ensure you have the correct kit and all necessary components (listed below). Familiarize yourself with the installation process to avoid potential challenges during assembly. Always follow safety precautions and use appropriate tools to complete the installation securely. SPELAB intake horn for 2013-2018 6.7L Cummins accessories Poper Pad (Square): 1 Dust Covers: 14 Paper Pod (Round): 1 External Hexagonal Wrench (S6*L151): 1 Gaskets: 2 Glue: 1 External Hexagon Flange Bolt (M8 L20 L12): 1 Aluminum Spacer (16 6.5 L8): 1 External Hexagonal Plug (S14 M22 1.5*L26): 1 Stainless Steel Gaskets (15 8 L1): 4 O-ring (30 25.2 2.4): 1 Inner Hexagon Stainless Steel Bolts: 4 Inner Hex Plug (M12 1.25 L12): 1 Inner Hexagon Flange Bolts (M8 L43 L35): 2 M6 Hexagon Socket (M6*L16): 1 Grade 12.9 Plugs (1/8-27NPT*L8.2): 4 Bracket Assembly (with welding nut): 1 Cable Ties (White): 5 High Pressure Oil Pipe (φ8*Inner 4): 1 Coil (Short): 1 Coils (Long): 2 Pre-Installation Checklist Verify that you have received the correct kit and all parts listed above. Ensure all parts are in good condition and undamaged. Always practice safe working standards: Allow the exhaust to cool completely before starting. Use appropriate safety stands and tools. Disconnect the battery negative terminals to avoid accidental arcing during the installation process. Installation Steps OEM Harness & Sensor Removal 1. Disconnect Batteries Place a rag around each of the negative battery cable ends; this will prevent them from touching the battery again and arcing during the install as you work. 2. Remove Engine Cover Remove engine beauty cover. Use an 8mm deep socket to remove the four bolts holding the cover down. 3. Remove Dipstick The dipstick needs to be removed for the cover to come off. 4. Remove Engine cover, Reinsert Dipstick 5. Remove Cable Tie Downs Use a panel popper tool or pliers. Note: The 2 bolts with studs extending up past the head are to be located on the left rear of the cover. 6. Remove Cable Tie Downs 7.Remove Engine Cover Bolts There are 8 bolts holding on the cover. A wobble extension and placing the socket on the bolts first helps. 8. Remove Oil Fill Cap 9. Place Rag Over Filler Neck 10. Remove Bolts Holding Crossover Bracket This bracket will not be reused. 11. Remove Rog, Set Down Cover 12. Install Oil Filler Cap 13. Remove Bolt Under Center of EGR Crossover Tube 14. Remove and Dispose EGR Tube P-Clamp 15. Reinstall 8 Engine Cover Bolts Studs in Rear Passenger Side 16. Unlock Temp Sensor Plug From EGR Crossover  Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pry tool to push the slide-lock. 17. Remove Temp Sensor by Pinching lt Unclip this wire clip for extra clearance. 18. Remove EGR Valve Plug Press the locking tab, press the plug forward to release tension, then pull back to remove. 19. Remove EGR harness cable tie EGR Tube Removal 20. Loosen EGR Clamp Driver's Side Use a small flat blade to release the clip. 21. Flip EGR Clamp Upside Down Do not remove the clamp yet. 22. Loosen EGR Clamp Passenger Side Do not remove this clomp yet [A gasket will slip out and foll if you do) 23. Release Driver side EGR Clamp Keep a hand under the clamp in case the gasket comes loose. 24. Release Clamp and Remove Gasket Catch the gasket and put it aside for later, this will be used again. 25. Release Passenger Side EGR Clamp Apply pressure to keep the gasket in place and Keep your hand under the passenger side clamp to prevent the flat EGR gasket from falling into the engine bay. 26. Catch EGR Gasket From Falling Intake Elbow Removal 27. Remove Throttle Heat Shield 28. Cut Dipstick Tube Zip Ties   Free up the thick 12V wire for the grid heater. 29. Remove 12V Harness P-Clamp 30. Remove Heater Cable from Terminal Relocate the wire out of the way once it’s free. 31. Remove Dipstick Tube Bracket 32. Bend Tube Up Slightly The product is slightly taller than the factory Intake Elbow. You'll fine-tune this bend after the product is installed. 33. Loosen Boost Tube Clamp This does not have to be fully removed, just release tension on the hose. 34. Pry Boost Tube Hose Off Throttle Body The hose may feel stuck or glued to the throttle body; carefully walk a panel popper tool around the tube to loosen its grip on the throttle body. This will make removal later easier. 35. Remove Cable Tie Back of Elbow & Unplug MAP Sensor 36. Remove Forward PCV Hose 37. Remove 6 Bolts on Elbow 38. Lean Elbow Toward You & Dislodge Boost Tube 39. Remove Throttle Control Plug Now that the elbow has been leaned forward, you can easily reach this plug. Slide the tab over and depress the end to remove the plug. 40. Place Rag & Clamp Over Boost Tube Factory Heater Plate Removal 41. Locate First Passenger Side Plug 41a. Slide the pink locking tab over, then pull to release. Locate Second Passenger Side Plug Slide Lock In. Depress button to release clip. Locate Third Passenger Side Plug 43a. Disconnect Third Passenger Side Plug. Locate Flat Blue Driver Side Plug 44a. Press in the clip with a flat tool, & pull up 45. Disconnect Large Driver Side Engine Harness Depress the clip and fully rotate the white lock, then pull to disengage. May need some force due to dust, grime, etc.   Release cable tie   46. Remove Rear Driver Side Plug 47. Remove Rear Driver Side Flat Blue Plug 48. Remove Rear PCV Hose 49. Remove Rubber Isolator 50. Remove Cable Ties from Driver Side Studs 51. Remove Dipstick Tube Stud   52. Bungee Cord Dipstick Tube 53. Remove Manifold Temp Sensor Plug 54. Place Rag Over Intake   55. Paint Marker Line Across Threaded Insert & Cylinder Head This will allow you to see if the threaded inserts into the head start to turn when loosening the fuel lines. You do not want the insert to spin loose, as this will cause a fuel leak. 56. Remove Fuel Lines If the inserts in the head start to move, use an open-ended wrench to hold them in place.   57. Install Dust Covers Insert the covers, open end facing out. The caps should fit (inside) each blocked port.   58. Loosen Fuel Line, Rotate Out of Way Do not fully remove the rear fuel rail. It is difficult to reach and only needs to be moved out of the way as shown.   59. Loosen High Pressure Fuel Feed Line Both the upper and lower ends.   59a. Swivel Back High Pressure Fuel Feed Line 60. Remove Banjo Bolt Take care not to lose the washer between the fuel rail & banjo bolt.   61. Remove Fuel Rail Bolts   61a. Place Rag At Rear of Fuel Rail There will still be fuel in the rail, and it’ll leak out in the next step if you don’t do this.   62. Bungee Fuel Rail Be sure that rag stays at the rear of the fuel rail, it will leak when you tilt it back. (tu) 63. Remove Factory Grid Heater 64. Clean Manifold Surface Take care not to scratch the surface, and vacuum out any debris that fall into the manifold. A rag with some solvent can clean up the finer material. 65. Spray Adhesive to Gasket   66. Align Gasket & Stick On Line up all of the bolt holes, and stick the gasket to the flat side of the plate. 67. Transfer Temp Sensor to The Plate Take care when removing the sensor and give it a clean with some scotch brite. Don’t over-tighten the sensor into the plate as the aluminum is softer than the steel threads on the sensor. It will bottom out so you’ll know when to stop.   Installation of Air Intake 68. Remove EGR Valve & Throttle 69. Remove Throttle Body The throttle will be stuck onto the gasket, so use a rubber mallet to help tap it free from the elbow.   70. Remove & Transfer MAP Sensor   71. Remove & Transfer Elbow Stud 72. Clean EGR Gasket Surface Take care not to nick the surface. Do the same for the throttle body gasket mating surface.   73. Place New EGR Gasket   74. Fasten EGR Bolts Apply a small amount of medium strength thread locker.   75. Align Throttle Body Gasket   76. Fasten Throttle Body to the product 77. Install Sensor Plugs Inspect the threaded holes, and be sure there is no powder coat in the holes. 78. Install Rear Thermocouple Plug 79. Install MAP Sensor Now is a good time to clean the sensor with some MAF/MAP cleaner spray. 80. Spray Gasket With Adhesive 81. Place Washers On Hex Cap Crews   82. Hold Plate In Place w/ Stock Bolt 83. Place Fuel Rail Standoffs 84. Release Bungee Cord. Place Fuel Rail & Studs in Place 85. Install Banjo Bolt & Washer 86. Tighten Fuel Rail Torque Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs. 87. Tighten Fuel Lines to 41 ft/lb 88. Tighten Fuel Supply Line Banjo Bolt Hand Tight Tighten Fuel Feed Line to 41 ft/lbs. 89. Connect Temp Sensor Extension Harness Be sure to lock the plug once connected. 90. Remove Middle Right Stud For Dipstick-Tube Slide Dipstick Bracket Over & Reinstall Stud. 91. Push Engine Harness Cable Ties Back Onto Studs 92. Put Rubber Isolator Back Into Place 93. Run Rear RCV Hose Under Dipstick Tube 94. Connect Rear PCV Hose Back To Valve Cover 95. Connect Rear Flat Blue Injector Plug 96. Connect Rear White Plug Be sure to slide the pink lock back into position. 97. Route Engine Harness Under Dipstick & Around Valve Cover 97a. Plug In 3 Remaining Plugs 98. Push Cable Ties Onto Studs Use the supplied extension to reconnect the EGR pipe and tube sensor. 99. Reconnect Engine Harness Connector 100. Do Not Connect Front Blue Injector Plug Yet 101. Remove Rag From Boost Tube, Put Clamp Back On 102. Insert The Product Into Boost Tube 103. Put Long Bolt Into Front Corner by Hand Then do the same for the long bolt on the backside. Followed by the two smaller bolts. 104. Use Telescoping Magnet to Start Bolts Use Hex Key Extension to Tighten Bolt. Tighten All Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs. 105. Place The Supplied Plug In The Designated Position And Tighten It 106. Install Dipstick Tube Bracket 107. Now Install Forward Flat Blue Injector Plug Be sure it clicks. 108. Connect Forward PCV Hose to Valve Cover This is a tight fit, but doable. Wiggle the rubber hose on the nipple a quarter inch, then use a pry tool as a lever to help slide it on. 109. Plug In MAP Sensor Secure the slide lock back into position. 110. Plug In Throttle Plug 111. Tighten Boost Tubes Clamp 112. Flat Washer Goes on Passenger Side of EGR Tube 113. Put Clamp Over Union & Hand Tighten 114. Conical Gasket Goes On Driver Side of EGR Tube 115. Tighten Driver Side Clamp 116. Tighten Passenger Side Clamp 117. Install Throttle Heat Shield Bolt & Nuts 118. Connect EGR Temp Sensor 119. Connect EGR Extension & Harness 120. Reconnect Batteries 121. First Start May Take 1-2 Min Of Engine Turnover This is normal. The fuel system, rail, and lines need to re-pressurize. Important Notice: The 1/8" NPT ports shall only be used for installing sensors for measuring air temperature, pressure, or flow. Sensors installed to these ports shall have a fitting of 1/8" NPT and shall not be connected to the vehicle's electronic control units. In addition, factory sensors that come equipped on the vehicle shall not be disconnected and shall not be relocated to the ports. The ports, when not used, shall be closed off with the supplied plugs. This guide is structured into clear sections, from pre-installation preparations to detailed removal and replacement steps, making it accessible for both DIY enthusiasts and professional installers. If assistance is required, our technical support team is ready to help at service@spelabautoparts.com . Let’s get started!